You know how I like to shift gears manually in my automatic
transmission Chrysler Mopar vehicle ('91 Plymouth Sundance RS [Rally
Sport]), from 1-2-D coming from a stop, and wind out the gears to Max
RPM's and force each gear to pretty high speeds? And also downshifting
to 2nd from "D" manually at 65 MPH on the HWY and holding 2nd gear to
about 80 MPH? Basically, shifting my automatic transmission like a
manual transmission.
I decided to perform this similar above practice metaphorically in my
fat loss program [Don't try this on your cutting phases..]. Doing this,
I now just got into the 130's and seeing myself getting into the 8%
bodyfat range.
Anyway, over the holidays, I decided to engineer this Microsoft Excel
chart which takes a Seasoned Driver's approach to Weight/Fat Loss. It
basically makes fat loss like traveling using a car. This chart is so
sophisticated that it's 6 MB large.
I use this chart for my program, and it works great.
My regimen mode selector uses the ' P R N D 2 1 ' method much like the
gear shift selectors in automatic transmission cars use. "P" PARK is
off-program. "R" REVERSE is muscle-building and bulking mode. "N"
NEUTRAL is neutral/maintain mode. "D" DRIVE is fat loss mode. "2"
SECOND is damage control mode. "1" LOW is contest prep, fasting or
fat-burning day mode.
The transmission method automatically shifts Calorie intake 'gear'
ranges up 'n down based on changes in fat loss speeds. In "D", intake
range starts in 1st then goes to 2nd then goes to 3rd and automatically
goes back and forth based on different speeds. In "2", it starts in 1st
and then goes to 2nd but doesnt shift past that. In "1", it stays in
1st.
If I ever wanted to do a semi-cut/semi-bulk, where I try to lose fat
and gain muscle at the same time, I would alternate between the regimen
shift settings "R" and "1". In automatic transmissions, "R" Reverse and
"1" LOW share the same band. So, in my program, I would use "R" Reverse
on my muscle building days and "1" LOW on my fat-burning days.
Basically, I would constantly switch back/forth/back/forth between them
until I have the body I like. This is based on Ron Brown's (author of
The Body Fat Guide) principle of alternating between fat-burning and
muscle-building days.
In my case following his principle, I would jerk it in "R" Reverse for
five days and then pop it in D1 for another few days and so on.
I have an RPM gauge (column) on my chart that shows how hard I'm
pushing myself in my program. Basically, it shows how hard I'm turning
my fat loss engine. I admit, I've done sudden starts at times and
red-lined in 1st and 2nd gears (using Manual "1" and Manual "2") a few
times on my way to 9%
I also have a Speedo column on there that shows fat loss speed. In Sept
'05, on my way to 11% bf, I peaked up to 90 MPH at times (equivalent to
2.5lbs loss/week) averaging 65 MPH (equiv to 1.8 lbs loss/week). Fat
loss engine spun at around 3,500 RPM. In June '05, going from 14% BF, I
pushed my fat loss engine/vehicle up to 115 MPH (equiv. to 3.5 lbs
loss/week) with my fat loss engine spinning at 5,000 RPM in 3rd
according to my RPM column. Usually, I average 45 MPH and hit up to 70
MPH at times.
Odometer column = Shows how many Calories you've dieted off during your
fat loss. Basically, this indicator shows how many calories you have
burned from stored body fat. Much like the miles you have put on the
car's engine, this is the number of miles you have put on your fat loss
engine.
And there's an Oil Pressure Gauge column. It shows state of metabolism
during your fat loss. If it's 50, it means your metabolism is 100%. If
it starts to drop off too much, shift your regimen to "N" Neutral and
stay there for several days or so. If it reads 'nil', your metabolism
is slowed wayyy down and/or trashed. Pull over immediately and shift
your program to "P" PARK!!! The Oil Light (Metabolism Warning) comes on
at 14.
Overall, this sounds like a dam good plan to me.
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