My new Fat Loss Vehicle Chart

Another recap on progress....

As soon as I get to 8.0-8.5% bodyfat, I'm starting another fat loss
vehicle chart based on another vehicle. The vehicle that the chart will
be based on is a '92 Toyota Camry 3.0 V6 4-Speed Automatic.

I'm driving this car right now since I'm getting some repairs done on
my '91 Sundance RS, and I created a whole new weight loss chart
calibrated to that Toyota. This Toyota 24V DOHC 3.0 V6 will haul ass,
btw, as it has 185 HP and 190 lbs/ft of torque (a lot of power for that
light-weight car). I manually shift it at times.

The vehicle chart I've been currently using from 9.5% body fat to my
current 8.8% body fat has been calibrated based on a '91 Plymouth Grand
Voyager SE 3.3 V6 4-speed. Using that chart, I've gotten to 8.8% body
fat and 138 lbs. I've done lots of stop 'n go driving, though. Last fat
loss cycle was in "D3" mode. I drove this van during the holidays, and
that thing will go as well. I was a speed demon in it over Christmas
week and hauled ass in that thing, and that week inspired me to create
a fat loss chart based on this vehicle.
I'm going to be using the Plymouth Voyager Fat Loss Chart until
8.0-8.5% body fat.

Anyway, this Toyota Camry Fat Loss Chart will feature:

E-Brake = sets your kcal to fixed narrow target range so your weight
doesn't roll backwards or forwards
Shift Input - P R N D 2 L = For selection of program modes
O/D Switch - To turn ON/OFF Fat Loss 4th drive gear
PWR Mode = To modify shift patterns for faster weight loss. "1" = ON,
"0" = OFF
Cruise Control = Automatically adjusts kcal targets to maintain a user
preset fat loss speed. "2" = fat loss speed increase, "1" = set speed,
"-1" = resume speed, "0" = cancel
Fat Gauge = shows trend body fat
Fuel Gauge = shows average kcal intake
Low Fuel Light = shows that average intake is too low
Temperature Gauge = shows average body temperature
Speedometer = shows speed of weight loss
Tachometer = shows effort, or how hard, you're driving your weight/fat
loss program

INFORMATION CENTER
Battery Light = warns of positive energy/kcal balance
Oil Light (Metabolism Warning Light), teapot symbol = warns of
starvation mode or that metabolism has slowed way down
E-Brake Indicator = Shows e-brake is on
PWR mode indicator = Shows PWR mode is on
O/D OFF indicator = Indicates O/D is off
Shift Indicator = Informs user of program setting
CRUISE indicator = Informs user that Weight Loss Cruise Control is ON.

ACCESSORIES and TRAVELER
Starting Information Input
Location = Current Weight
Destination = Goal Weight
DTG = Distance to Goal Weight
Odometer = Miles = Cumulative Calorie Deficit
Power Windows = Turns on/off weight display
Pictures = Pictures of the vehicle, its interior, and the engine

With all these ponies, I should get to my goal of 6-7% bodyfat and 130
lbs!!! I plan to haul ass in the Toyota. I will do the following:

1)On each fat/weight loss start, I plan to start with PWR mode ON, the
Shift Input in "2", and O/D OFF on my chart.
2)Then I will wind out my weight loss until my weight loss speed hits a
tad over 70 MPH in 2nd (rate of 2 lbs/week).
3)Then few days later I will change my shift input to "D" to shift my
Kcal intake to 3rd. I will stay there for 3 days.
4)Then I will turn O/D (Overdrive) ON on my chart to get to fat loss
4th gear and go on my merry way....
5)At desired weight loss speed, I will turn cruise control on, on my
chart, and just coast on my program.

The above way is the same way I drive the Toyota when I'm in a big
hurry. At a stop light, I turn PWR mode on, move the shifter to "2",
and turn O/D OFF. Then when I hit 65-70 in 2nd gear, I slap shift to
"D" to move to 3rd gear and after that, I turn O/D on to go into 4th
gear.

If I want a great jolt of speedup, I will pop my intake in Manual "L"
LOW for a couple of days.

I did the above to beat a redlight one time. I popped it in "L" at
speed. The engine went to 6,800 RPM (a little past redline) and I held
to ~55 MPH in 1st gear.

So, I wonder if these same strategies I employ in that Toyota would
work on my program.

Anyway, other charts I'm doing later will be based on the '91
Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Quad 4, '91 Plymouth Sundance RS (My car),
'97 Nissan Altima, 2000 Ford Focus ZX3, '94 Chevy Camaro Z28, and some
others. I have a Universal Fat Loss Vehicle Template where I can
calibrate to different vehicles. All I do is change the output chart
face so I can accomodate it to that vehicle dash cluster.

Pentastar wrote:
> Another recap on progress....
>
> As soon as I get to 8.0-8.5% bodyfat, I'm starting another fat loss
> vehicle chart based on another vehicle. The vehicle that the chart will
> be based on is a '92 Toyota Camry 3.0 V6 4-Speed Automatic.
>
> I'm driving this car right now since I'm getting some repairs done on
> my '91 Sundance RS, and I created a whole new weight loss chart
> calibrated to that Toyota. This Toyota 24V DOHC 3.0 V6 will haul ass,
> btw, as it has 185 HP and 190 lbs/ft of torque (a lot of power for that
> light-weight car). I manually shift it at times.
>
> The vehicle chart I've been currently using from 9.5% body fat to my
> current 8.8% body fat has been calibrated based on a '91 Plymouth Grand
> Voyager SE 3.3 V6 4-speed. Using that chart, I've gotten to 8.8% body
> fat and 138 lbs. I've done lots of stop 'n go driving, though. Last fat
> loss cycle was in "D3" mode. I drove this van during the holidays, and
> that thing will go as well. I was a speed demon in it over Christmas
> week and hauled ass in that thing, and that week inspired me to create
> a fat loss chart based on this vehicle.
> I'm going to be using the Plymouth Voyager Fat Loss Chart until
> 8.0-8.5% body fat.
>
> Anyway, this Toyota Camry Fat Loss Chart will feature:
>
> E-Brake = sets your kcal to fixed narrow target range so your weight
> doesn't roll backwards or forwards
> Shift Input - P R N D 2 L = For selection of program modes
> O/D Switch - To turn ON/OFF Fat Loss 4th drive gear
> PWR Mode = To modify shift patterns for faster weight loss. "1" = ON,
> "0" = OFF
> Cruise Control = Automatically adjusts kcal targets to maintain a user
> preset fat loss speed. "2" = fat loss speed increase, "1" = set speed,
> "-1" = resume speed, "0" = cancel
> Fat Gauge = shows trend body fat
> Fuel Gauge = shows average kcal intake
> Low Fuel Light = shows that average intake is too low
> Temperature Gauge = shows average body temperature
> Speedometer = shows speed of weight loss
> Tachometer = shows effort, or how hard, you're driving your weight/fat
> loss program
>
> INFORMATION CENTER
> Battery Light = warns of positive energy/kcal balance
> Oil Light (Metabolism Warning Light), teapot symbol = warns of
> starvation mode or that metabolism has slowed way down
> E-Brake Indicator = Shows e-brake is on
> PWR mode indicator = Shows PWR mode is on
> O/D OFF indicator = Indicates O/D is off
> Shift Indicator = Informs user of program setting
> CRUISE indicator = Informs user that Weight Loss Cruise Control is ON.
>
> ACCESSORIES and TRAVELER
> Starting Information Input
> Location = Current Weight
> Destination = Goal Weight
> DTG = Distance to Goal Weight
> Odometer = Miles = Cumulative Calorie Deficit
> Power Windows = Turns on/off weight display
> Pictures = Pictures of the vehicle, its interior, and the engine
>
> With all these ponies, I should get to my goal of 6-7% bodyfat and 130
> lbs!!! I plan to haul ass in the Toyota. I will do the following:
>
> 1)On each fat/weight loss start, I plan to start with PWR mode ON, the
> Shift Input in "2", and O/D OFF on my chart.
> 2)Then I will wind out my weight loss until my weight loss speed hits a
> tad over 70 MPH in 2nd (rate of 2 lbs/week).
> 3)Then few days later I will change my shift input to "D" to shift my
> Kcal intake to 3rd. I will stay there for 3 days.
> 4)Then I will turn O/D (Overdrive) ON on my chart to get to fat loss
> 4th gear and go on my merry way....
> 5)At desired weight loss speed, I will turn cruise control on, on my
> chart, and just coast on my program.
>
> The above way is the same way I drive the Toyota when I'm in a big
> hurry. At a stop light, I turn PWR mode on, move the shifter to "2",
> and turn O/D OFF. Then when I hit 65-70 in 2nd gear, I slap shift to
> "D" to move to 3rd gear and after that, I turn O/D on to go into 4th
> gear.
>
> If I want a great jolt of speedup, I will pop my intake in Manual "L"
> LOW for a couple of days.
>
> I did the above to beat a redlight one time. I popped it in "L" at
> speed. The engine went to 6,800 RPM (a little past redline) and I held
> to ~55 MPH in 1st gear.
>
> So, I wonder if these same strategies I employ in that Toyota would
> work on my program.
>
> Anyway, other charts I'm doing later will be based on the '91
> Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Quad 4, '91 Plymouth Sundance RS (My car),
> '97 Nissan Altima, 2000 Ford Focus ZX3, '94 Chevy Camaro Z28, and some
> others. I have a Universal Fat Loss Vehicle Template where I can
> calibrate to different vehicles. All I do is change the output chart
> face so I can accomodate it to that vehicle dash cluster.

Groovy.

At 5' 7", 175#, 12% BF I benched a !RM of 305. What car is that?