Driver's Fat Loss Manual...sort of my unique idea ;-)

Ok, I'm a Chrysler enthusiast. I consider myself a "seasoned driver". I
thought I'd try to share this, if anyone was interested.

I'm on a fat loss program right now. I use Microsoft Excel to track
everything. I have made really long complicated formulas to calculate
everything using different inputs.

During the program, I've been applying "driving" principles. First of
all, I like to drive my car in a performance/racing fashion a bit at
times.

My body composition tracking chart is set up in such a way that it
kinda resembles a Dash Cluster in a car.

Here are some driving/mechanic principles I've applied in my program.

The first things I want to share are the Shifter Methods of my program.
The shifter methods are based kinda on the principles of Mopar,
Chrysler, Dodge transmissions.

The Shifter setup on my chart is my regimen shifter, or "goal
selector", which shifts my goal paths.

-------------------

A-413 Torque-Flite
THREE GEAR, Calorie Deficit/Intake Range
AUTOMATIC REGIMEN SHIFTER
Modes

P R N D 2 1

"P" Park
This is "Off Program" mode. I input this mode when I take extended
breaks from my regimen such as during holidays or vacations.I never
attempt to shift to this mode when my bulk-up or fat loss is in motion.
My fat loss has to be started in 1st GEAR from this mode when shifting
to DRIVE.

"R" Reverse
I shift to this mode by inputting "R" if I'm ready to do a
muscle-building, or bulking, phase. I should come to a complete stop in
my fat loss program before shift into this mode.

"N" Neutral
For week long refeeds to reset metabolism, where Calorie intake is at
baseline. Also, I can shift into this mode when I have a planned event
(social, school, church, etc.) coming up. Fat loss can be resumed right
back from this mode when shifting back to DRIVE.

"D" Drive
For most normal fat loss phases. DRIVE starts in 1st GEAR and
automatically shifts to 2nd GEAR, then to 3rd GEAR, and continues to
shift up and down automatically based on day by day changes in rate of
weight loss. Basically, "D" mode shifts Calorie target ranges
automatically up and down based on the situation (daily changes in rate
of fat loss).

"2" Second
For damage control purposes due to a set-back on the fat loss program.
SECOND starts in 1st GEAR and automatically shifts to 2nd Gear but
doesn't shift past that point. This is lower calorie mode.

"1" Low
Used for occasional fasting to wash out toxins from the body or for
religious purposes. LOW starts in 1st GEAR but stays in that gear
indefinitely. This is basically very low calorie mode.

Downshifting from DRIVE, to SECOND or LOW, is not recommended while fat
loss is at full speed.

The GEARS

Calorie Deficit Ranges:
1st GEAR - 1600 - 2100 Calorie Deficit
2nd GEAR - 1100 - 1600 Calorie Deficit
3rd GEAR - 500 - 1100 Calorie Deficit

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A-604 Ultra-Drive
FOUR GEAR, Calorie Deficit/Intake Range
AUTOMATIC REGIMEN SHIFTER
Modes

P R N (OD) 3 L

"P" Park
This is "Off Program" mode. Input this mode when taking extended
breaks from your regimen such as during holidays or vacations. Do not
attempt to shift to this mode when your muscle-building or fat loss
phase is in motion. Fat loss has to be started from 1st GEAR from this
mode when shifting to OVERDRIVE.

"R" Reverse
Shift to this mode by inputting "R" when getting prepared to do a
muscle-building, or bulking, phase. Come to a complete stop in your fat
loss program before shifting into this mode.

"N" Neutral
For week long refeeds to reset metabolism, where Calorie intake is at
baseline. Also, shift into this mode when having planned events
(social, school, church, etc.) coming up. Fat loss can be resumed right
back from this mode when shifting back to OVERDRIVE.

"OD" Overdrive
For most normal fat loss phases. OVERDRIVE starts in 1st GEAR and
automatically shifts to 2nd GEAR, then to 3rd GEAR, then to 4th GEAR
and continues to shift up and down automatically based on day by day
changes in rate of weight loss. Basically, "OD" mode shifts Calorie
target ranges automatically up and down based on the situation (daily
changes in rate of fat loss).

"3" Drive
Used if you want sustained somewhat faster fat loss. Used for damage
control purposes as well due to a set-back on the fat loss program.
Starts in 1st GEAR and automatically shifts to 2nd GEAR, then to 3rd
GEAR but doesn't go into Overdrive, or 4th GEAR.

"L" Low
Used for occasional fasting to wash out toxins from the body or for
religious purposes. Inputting "L", LOW starts in 1st GEAR but stays in
that gear. This is basically very low Calorie mode. However, if fat
loss gets to proceeding too quickly in 1st GEAR, the regimen shifter
will over-ride the regimen mode and automatically upshift the Kcal
Intake/Deficit range anyway. When downshifting to "L" LOW, the shifter
will ONLY downshift Kcal Intake/Deficit range to 1st GEAR when fat loss
slows down to a certain speed.

Once on a sustained fat loss phase, it is recommended to stay in
OVERDRIVE mode. Never shift down to LOW while fat loss is in full
swing.

The GEARS

Calorie Deficit Ranges:
1st GEAR - 1650 - 2100 Calorie Deficit
2nd GEAR - 1200 - 1650 Calorie Deficit
3rd GEAR - 750 - 1200 Calorie Deficit
4th GEAR - 300 - 750 Calorie Deficit

---------------


Current weight/fat% is the current location, and goal is the final
destination. There are stop 'n' go situations on the way to goal.

The odometer is the cumulative Kcal deficit, the total deficit
accumulated throughout whole program.

The speedometer is rate of fat loss.

FUEL SYSTEM
In the form of Calories, fuel is taken in each day. Each day, Calories
are reduced while accelerating the fat loss in each gear to get the fat
loss moving forward. To accelerate the fat loss, I give it some
throttle by lowering the Calories within the current gear, or kcal,
range. To decelerate fat loss, I let off the throttle by increasing
Calories while still staying below baseline. I can max out the Calorie
deficits in each gear range by doing "Wide Open Throttle" to reduce
calories very low for max fat loss acceleration.
FUEL GAUGE
Indicates the two week and one week average intake of Calories. This
helps in determining trends in fuel/metabolism ratios.

BRAKING SYSTEM
To apply the brakes on my fat loss program to slow it down, I eat a
little to somewhat over baseline Calories while the fat loss is in
motion. I do this day by day until the fat loss speed goes to 0 . When
the speed hits 0, fat loss program should be back in 1st GEAR.
Basically, as the fat loss speed is slowing down, the fat loss program
should downshift automatically from 3rd GEAR to 2nd GEAR, then to 1st
GEAR when it completely halts.
When I want to rush and stop my fat loss program abruptly, I can slam
on the "brakes" by eating way over maintenance and going hog wild and
binging while in gear. This would more likely get me right from a
higher fat loss speed to a speed of 0 in a day or so going right from
3rd GEAR to 1st GEAR as the fat loss halts.
Sometimes, the "brakes" can also be "accidentally" applied when I
'slip' on my fat loss program by overeating on some days.
In DRIVE, the fat loss program will stay in 1st GEAR as long as the fat
loss is stopped at 0 MPH and when moving, the speed is less than 13
MPH.
It will take off and start again until I eat at the 1st GEAR Calorie
Deficit target range in order to accelerate the fat loss again.
If I'm in a bulking phase, I can hit the brakes on my program by doing
the opposite. I eat in deficit in REVERSE and do so until my weight
(muscle) gain stops and my weight stabilizes.
After weight change is stopped, I can switch to different Regimen
Modes.
BRAKE LIGHT
The BRAKE indicator kicks on when the brakes are applied on a fat loss
program or bulking program. The light will also kick on when I'm
slipping on my program usually by eating excess Calories
unintentionally generally from unplanned party events. If I'm slipping
and not counting the Calories in those cases, then the BRAKE light
won't kick on, but the fat loss will still have the corresponding
slowdown.

TEMPERATURE GAUGE
The body temperature indicates the rate at which the body is burning
Calories. A temperature reading of 97.8-98.2 Degress F usually
indicates that my metabolic functions are operating satisfactorily. It
is normal for my body temperature to drop some during the course of an
extended fat loss phase. If my body temperature drops more than 1
degree below this range, then I shift my program to NEUTRAL and take a
week long break. I wait for my temperature to go back up. Then I resume
the program again.

OIL PRESSURE GAUGE
Indicates the state of my metabolism. This reading is determined by the
true Calorie expenditure based on my intake compared to actual changes
in my body weight. When this value goes down some over the course of my
fat loss phase, then my metabolism is slowing down. If the value goes
down too much, in comparison to my estimated calculated expenditures,
then I may have a Leptin or Diet-Induced-Thyroid malfunction from
extended fat loss. This gauge is ON only when the regimen shifter,
inputted by either P R N D 2 1, is in DRIVE, NEUTRAL, SECOND, or LOW.
To correct this, shift into "N" Neutral and do a week long refeed.
State of metabolism should improve.

Here's how this Oil Pressure Gauge analogy works.
My car has an oil pressure gauge. When I'm driving on the highway hard
for extended periods of time (much like doing a drastic fat loss phase
for a while), my oil pressure drops (esp. at engine idle speed). When I
give the car a rest, the oil pressure rises again.

That's all I can come up with for now. I plan on writing a whole manual
on this method. I have charts I'm developing as well that I may upload
to make available for download for free if anyone is interested in
checking them out.

The charts are actually mostly developed now and are about done. I'm
just working out some bugs right now. They are made by Excel.

I have several types of charts. The first two 'automatically adjust' my
Calorie targets based on fat loss speed. One type is the P R N D 2 1,
the three GEAR, or three Calorie deficit/intake range. This chart is
the A-413 chart.
Another one is the P R N D 3 L, the four GEAR, or four Calorie
deficit/intake range. This type of shifter method is set up in a more
sophisticated manner. It has a few overdiet, anorexia, and
"extreme-fat-loss protection" features. This chart is the A-604 chart.

Then the other type is the Manual Shifter method, the A-525 chart. This
is the 1 2 3 4 5 N R with P (Park Brake). You manual shift your Calorie
targets day by day based on daily changes in rate of fat/weight loss.
N, R, P serve same purposes as automatic shifters.

Overall, if I comply with the calorie targets on my chart, I make good
progress.
I use the P R N D 2 1, A-413 Torque-Flite chart, myself.

Hopefully, this method is sort of understandable. I think it's pretty
unique.

Pentastar wrote:

> Hopefully, this method is sort of understandable. I think it's pretty
> unique.


Hmmm. It looks like something you could sell to Nascar enthusiasts.
Anyone who really wants to understand how their body works (and why
these methods might work for them) would do better to skip the analogy, IMO.

If you're just into following simple rules, I like the five stage
version better:

0. Fix your head. (Why did you get fat to begin with?)
1. Eat less.
2. Exercise more.
3. Repeat
4. Forever.

Dally